27th December 07

By Aftab Ahmed Baloch

BEFORE THE STORY BEGINS… As long as the history of Pakistan is recalled, this day will be referred to as the darkest day of Pakistan, when Mohtarma Benazir Bhutto (the former democratically elected Prime Minister of Pakistan, the daughter of East, the most powerful lady of the Muslim world was assassinated. When the mystery is still shrouded with so many questions & secrets to be revealed, like previous customary secrets of ‘assassination series’ in Pakistan where various known figures had been killed & their file were closed forever e.g. first prime minister: Shaheed Liaquat Ali Khan, Shaheed Murtaza Bhutto, former dictator Ziaul Haq, Shaheed Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto, Hakeem Muhammad Saeed, Mir Murtaza Bhutto and the great Baloch leader like Shaheed Akbar Bughti (former Chief Minister of Balochistan) who was also among the pioneers in Pakistan movement. Murder of Mohtarma Benazir Bhutto is being assumed as a crucial loss for entire nation because there was & is an acute lack of able leadership in Pakistan. The incident have not only changed forever the history of Pakistan, caused out of boarder upshots but above all has permanent impacts upon lives of individuals, as this unexpected occurrence had caused worst kind of riots & ethnic violence in the history of Pakistan, where several hundred innocent peoples were killed, let alone collective or personal financial damages which were in millions and never compensated by Pakistani government. This was the ‘fate deciding’ day for many families in Pakistan, which cannot be undo now. On that day, criminals, gangs, rapists including raged party workers well made the use of their inner evils. The dance of evil had been continued for almost 3 days in all over country especially in Karachi & interior Sindh (i.e. areas which are considered as PPPs vote bank). For 3-4 days all kinds of business & official activities in all over country, especially in Sindh Province were totally shunned down. This was the day in Pakistan after which the concept of ‘who is who’ and impressions of nationalities and communities went off deeper rather dreaming for a single nation, which is quite obscure now. Only after these incidents, provinces like Balochistan & Sindh are openly claiming for ‘independence’..The writings on the wall.. Many stories of 12/27 riot survivors later appeared in electronic & print media. In this article, I’ll try to reflect my own one to one eye accounts, besides facts, which were not disclosed in media i.e. how after the incident of Benazir’s murder at Rawalpindi (which was even kept secret during initial hours in the media), gradually most horrible riots erupted like a wildfire in the city. How police, law & order agencies were totally absent from the streets. How in Karachi, survivors after so many hours of brain torture & fear reached their homes … How families in cars looted by criminals, public & private vehicles were torched, lone women & girls (who had been lost / abducted & gang raped for whole night. How godowns, warehouses, shops, vehicles were looted by the masses & set ablaze. The conclusion of my article will not be in usual political, geographical tone (as much have already been written & available on-line), but in a more diverse ‘philosophical insights’… PLAY POINT… As event of assassination happened at Liaquat Bagh, Rawalpindi, when she was about to leave the public meeting place in the evening of Thursday, December 27, 2007 around 6-7 p.m. and it was a usual peak working day in all over country. In Karachi city too after exhaustive routine work, people were heading towards their homes. Various people including women & children on their way from homes or were coming from Offices, factories, shopping centres, bazaars etc. I was too heading towards Gulshan from my office, when I reached near Metropolitan Hotel, it was already 7.20 p.m. After two earlier bloodiest incidents in the city I made it my habit to check the news updates on internet before leaving my office. And then now there were no news of her murder, except a bomb blast at Liaquat Bagh, Rawalpindi. These two bloodiest incidents were of May 12 & Oct. 18, 2007. Before I resume my topic, let me have few words on these two events too. On May 12, 2007 the sacked Chief Justice, Iftikhar M. Chaudri (now he has been restored to his previous position) was arriving in Karachi city to address at the Lawyer’s Bar, but he even never succeeded to come out of the airport, owing to crucial situation in the city, when terrorists of different political parties, especially of MQM had already taken over the control of city. A large number of people were killed during straight firing at Sharea Faisal, Karachi. The Pakhtoons party was in favor of welcoming Chief Justice while Urdu speaking (MQM folks) under the auspicious of Gen. Pervaiz Musharraf were against this idea. The result was worst kind of ethnic cleansing & death tolls. The day 12th May, 2007 is now celebrated as the bloodiest day in Pakistan. The second bloodiest encounter happened in the same year at October 18, when Mohtarma Benazir Bhutto after a long time, was arriving from Dubai and she was proposed to speech at Mazar-e-Quaid, but she also never reached her destination, as there was complete black-out in the city, apparently MQM (the ‘sole owner’ of the city) is again looks involved in the scheme. When her procession was near Karsaz, a sudden bomb explosion caused hundreds of peoples, including majority of youths from Lyari as brutally killed. Victim’s body parts were ripped apart in several kilometers. The number reaches at mind blowing figure of 250-300. So it was around 7.20-7.30 p.m. the place was near Avari Tower, towards Sharea Faisal. There was total darkness as street lights had been switched off, people were already terrified, because of previous incidents & the news of Benazir ‘s murder was not yet broke out by the media, then suddenly a car driver shouted: ‘Benazir damakay men mari gaee!! (i.e. Benazir was killed in a Bomb Blast). The news received people’s sudden panic & shock . Everybody was helplessly trying to contact their homes but in vain, as all mobile phone networks were jammed. I also tried to contact my family but of no avail. Now every car driver tuned on their FM radios to listen more details. Traffic was moving inch by inch, there were no traffic constables, police or rangers, people are on the total mercy of criminals & thieves. Gradually news of riots was also breaking out and everybody was in a hurry and in panic. People just wanted to reach their homes at all costs. There were hue & cry on roads, cars horning, people cursing each others. Bikers were trying to pull their bikes over footpaths, mini buses were being emptied and people were walking on roads. I was too somehow managing to drive on footpaths like other panicked bikers. When I reached near Jail Chowrangi from Tariq Road, the time was 9.30 p.m.! i.e. it took 2 hours from Avari Tower to reach at Jail Chowrangi. BUT…. something was wrong there, people on streets including barefoot girls without duppata were screaming & running. O God! Ahead of 50 foot, raged mob were forcefully vacating buses / mini buses, cars, smashing windscreens, motorcycles & torching them. They were equipped with weapons. Some criminals by benefitting the situation were also looting vehicles, purse & mobiles from helpless public. The dance of evil had just begun. Some people were also looked wounded. It was simply the sight of doomsday (qayamat). Women & children were screaming in fear, no time for help, no security, complete lawlessness; the road towards NIPA was blocked by evil protestors & terrorists. Until next 2-days, there were no proper police patrolling and angry mob also torched Askari Park.

Now the traffic was diverted towards Liaquat National/Agha Khan Hospital Road, I also took it granted & turned my bike swiftly towards the direction. Noises were slowing down. Again inch by inch movement, when traffic reaches in front of Liaquat National & Agha Khan Hospitals, an elder biker fell on the road some youths including me stopped for a while to help him. He was unconscious & looked a victim of heart attack, we tried to give him first aid but of no use as people behind us, continuously shouting with rage ‘Choro is budday ko jaldi yahan say nikalnay ki karo, halaat bohot kharaab horahay hen’ (meaning: leave this old man alone, situation is getting worse, get out of the way)... Simply nobody was ready for a rescue, and then some volunteers carried him to Liaquat National. Again I checked cell’s network there was no signal yet, except the time indication as 10.10 p.m. I was thinking that my family must be disturbed, as they would be watching ‘breaking news’ on TV. We were again on our way; it is just before the civic centre bridge. Suddenly at yards distance two roughs were seen dragging a helpless girl, everybody noticed but did nothing, as each & everyone is fighting for its own survival. Roughs with helpless girl were disappeared in one of the office buildings. The selfish approach had already overtaken everything…

On top of the bridge fire was erupting, a mini bus was just lit by angry protestors. It heat was so intense that instead of a cold night of December, I was sweating. Now there is no chance to climb up on the bridge. I thought, as it is the last day of my life. Seeing the situation people had stopped to cross the bridge. Agay jana mushkil hai, (it is impossible to move further) one of bikers said. Bhai moat ko dawat daina hai. (It is likely inviting death!). Bike yaheen chore dayten hen (leave bike here). Finally I decided to sacrifice my new bike too. Nearby civic centre is a service road, where people were parking their bikes on the mercy of criminals. I also decided to leave my bike and walk home, as it was quite better option to leave the infested place now. I parked & locked it with cable chain. I was quite sure, that sooner it would also be torched like others. I must get the hell out of there. After leaving my bike on the mercy of God, instead of approaching from the bridge, I decided to walk down roadside, as I had to reach to Gulshan railway crossing. Everybody was escaping, some helpless women were trying to fetch a rickshaw, but no rickshaw driver was willing to carry her. Firing & torching still continued. Rascals with weapons were roaming freely on roads, looting & torching everything on their way. Somehow, I managed to cross the road, from Expo centre. As soon as I crossed, exchange of firing started, I ran as fast as I could, while bowing my head down. There were also other peoples, running for their lives, some people were watching from their apartments, and enjoying the ‘live show’. When I reached some safer distance, I checked my mobile again, the signals were ok & the screen was displaying numerous miscalls! Some of them from my house, including some unknowns. I immediately contacted home, it picked up in no time, it was the voice of my daughter, she was continuously weeping, and she asked ‘where are you papa? Benazir is killed in a bomb blast! We were terribly upset by the critical situation of the city. I told them that I’m fine & just a few yards walking distance away, don’t worry for me. Finally I reached home, family members vehemently welcomed as if I was coming abroad. In violence, much damage had been caused all over country, especially in Sindh province, as what TV is showing. Suddenly my cell rang again, the number was same unknown. I picked it up. The other side was a youth of our old neighborhood, who had been working somewhere near Liaquat National Hospital. He cried that he is with his office companion & badly trapped in riots. He asked me to pick him up from the roadside as he cannot go to violence infested Lyari. Now, I was given a task to pick the guy from roadside. My brother alongwith his children have also been trapped at our home. May be thousands of people remain trapped in each other’s homes, offices & factories., Although it was too risky to step outside at that moment of violence, but we were bound to pick him up anyway. The firing was still continued outside.. We had to reach near Expo Centre, where our Lyari fellow has to be dropped by his office companion. As I had already left my bike on the mercy of rioters at Civic centre, we walked on foot. The distance towards Expo Centre passed safely. The main expo centre road was giving empty look, except some panicked bikers & private car drivers. Some smoke emitting old tires, bikes & mini buses were still lying on roads. My panic was growing, as our friend didn’t reach yet. I kept giving him miscalls. Finally he reached over bike with his office colleagues. He looked upset & worried; I thanked the guy, who left him safe & sound. Now we’ve to hurry & must move from here, I told them. When we reached near Gulshan railway crossing, firing had erupted. Some rascals on four wheelers, equipped with automatic weapons, were spreading harassment. People were fleeing for their lives, we too ran as fast as we could. Far & wide, there was no existence of police or rangers. By some means, we changed our root & reached home safe & sound. Now after these entire minds blowing incidence clock was giving a time of 11.40 p.m. Our Lyari friend also informed his home and they were all thankful to us. They continued to leave with us for further 3-4 days, finally the erupted lava of agitations came down & they leave for Lyari. RIOT TALES FROM LYARI & ELSE… Riot tales, on account of Benazir murder was worst in the city. Various warehouses, godowns/stores, shops (mostly belonged to Punjabi, Memons) were looted & torched. The poverty stricken Lyarites, which have always been kept on empty promises, fill their houses with looted grains, sugars, flour bags, mineral waters & what not! Various factories, alongwith their workers (who had been trapped because of city riots) were set ablaze. The incidents of gang rapes were also reported by the witnesses, near Bin Qasim & other far flung factory areas. But media never reported them. The innocent daily worker women & girls were the primary victims. On that day of 27th December, 2007 many families who had been waiting for their beloved, never found them alive! Various taxi, rickshaw drivers were killed & their vehicles torched for the unseen crime, worst part is they were never compensated by government or any agency; as a result their family members are still suffering for the incurable miseries. Perhaps for them the life will not be normal again, NEVER! CRUX OF THE STORY.. What I want to convey that what we do in this world, be in a negligible form has its impacts, sometimes worst, sometime unnoticed. Worst in a case that unending series of chain disruption occurred, causing many lives at stacks, beyond control of human being. Sometimes the decision of an individual is the prime factors. Just look at various Wars, miserable events of the world, mostly of them were started with trivial matters. Benazir murder too must have been decision of an individual or groups, but what was the OUTCOME, is evident to all..

Mysterious ‘chain disruption’ can be also be understood in a technical daily life manner. For example, you are riding on a bike, the chain is most important part of any bike, and it runs wheel from engine movement. Suddenly a single link (may be negligible if lying alone) is broken. What would happen?? The worst outcome could be the fatal accident, costing your life, if you are riding on a busy fast road, as a truck could crush you, or in other cases, you could be late to reach your proposed destination, which may be further linked to other events & people or group of peoples.

Further these reactions are not surprising but a common instinct of human being. Whenever a revolution, war or anarchy like situation erupts in any part of the world, the reactions in form of mass revenge, murder, rape, looting speak of its worst kind. Human history is full of such bloody incidents. Be it French revolution, 1857 Indian Independence War, Nazi death camps of Auschwitz, Russian attacks over Afghanistan, Algerian or Indonesian massacre, China Taiwan massacres, Vietnam War, East/West Pakistan separation, Gulf war, 9/11 & the recent Iraq / Afghan War, routine suicide bomb blasts in Pakistan….

Amazingly, in all these situation, all moral, ethical, theistic, conscious norms become meaningless and human being demonstrate as it’s nastiest. Here again the question arises that in such cases what are the role of religion, culture & consciousness? Because in each & every worst case ‘mean behavior’ always overcomes every earned traits of human being.

The entire universe including its natural principles is established on delicate balances. These delicate balances are called ‘divine & pre-planned’ by THEOLOGIANS and ‘accidental / evolved’ by AGNOSTICS. Whatever they may be, but each & every disruption from human being to alter these ‘delicate balances’ has its own price & consequences, some less & some higher.

If we throw a pebble in one part of the ocean, it creates impulses to the other part, while it is quite another story that whether we are capable to measure the impacts or not.

We cannot undo the past events which are responsible for current events. We also understand that for any event to take place there must be numerous events in the past which make this event possible. Each event is a culmination of innumerable events in the past as well as forerunner of some other event in the future. It is impossible for human being to change the course of events, the ‘chain reaction’ since the causes of those events lie not in his domain but in the whole of the past of the universe i.e. what is called as a FATE or destiny.

But revolving around ‘fate’ our freedom is only limited to the actions we take but not to the outcome of that act.!! This sounds logical because the outcome of any act depends on so ‘many factors’ that one cannot realistically hope to have control over all those factors but becomes part of it. That is why even the best laid plans of the mightiest and most intelligent people turn to dust. ********************

FUNERAL OF THE SEA GIANT VESSEL & GADDANI’S ENVIRONMENTAL HAVOC

By Aftab Ahmed Baloch

It was the second largest ‘floating sea object’ after Jahre Viking…, built by French.., once used to carry half a million tons of crude oil from the waters of Saudi Arabia to United States!…., with a mind blowing weight of 555,000-tonns!, longer than the Eiffel Tower (about 1400 ft), higher than a 10 story building!…, wider than a Tennis Court…. As we heard the news of her arrival that she is being dragged to Gaddani (the second largest ships graveyard in Asia) for her final doom, so we had decided to reach at any cost from Karachi. At first, we were quite mesmerized by the enormous size of the ship, as ever built by human being. The scrapping process of the ship had already taken place, when we reached there, the outer shell of the ship along with the first tank had already been slashed down, yet the horizontal expansion was still enough to scare us, which is presenting the view of a gigantic castle or a giant wall, but it is true that the death of giant tanker had brought jobs for daily workers. There were noises of cranes, welding machines, vehicles movement. We were asked to be careful at sight, as any piece of iron could crash us. According to the news source, the ship was obtained by M/S Usman Enterprises as a ‘scrap for’ US$25.5 million by winning the contract. Infact, we visited there on Sunday, but the cropping job was still on boom, workers/labors were engaged in dismantling process through gas cutters, cranes etc. The security Incharge allowed us to roam at the site at our own risk, every where there were pieces of iron sheets, rusty pipes & junks, the sand was covered with residual oil and a pungent gassy smell was also noticed us, yet the magic of Sea Giant had overcome all troubles & fears. Other plots, apart from the sight of Sea Giant, were showing the worst picture of environment. Several dead fishes, wooden leftovers of ships were scattered all over the shore showing the lack of proper cleaning & maintenance. The labors were engaged without any safety measures & protectors like without wearing safety helmets, special clothes, goggles or gloves etc, seems like worker’s safety is clearly not the ‘top priority’ job at Gaddani. Various organizations & worker’s association had shown their concern over meager safety measures for workers & threat to environment but of no use.

Some Baloch dwellers, unaware of the devastating environment, were busy in fishing, hanging on a slashed deck of a rusty ship. Upon enquiry, one of the person, spoke that emitting oil and gassy chemicals from the ships have forced them further offshore in search of fish and have also caused stomach, eye and respiratory troubles, he also explained that at night there is no street lights, because the government or the owners of the ship-breaking industry have no interest, they don’t care about labor’s rights, except earning money…. An out-dated Oil Rack was also there, waiting for his final fate…, the sun was just setting in the middle of oil rack which was suddenly captured by me. When we were walking outside the ship’s graveyard towards the darkening road, the Titanic’s favorite song echoed in my imagination: “My Heart goes on…..

For interest of the readers: Presently the world’s largest Oil Cargo or King of the Tankers is Jahre Viking, having a length of 1,503 feet long with 226 feet wide!, claiming the tonnage of 565,000! The second largest is China’s Emma Maersk, carries a length of 1302 ft, and 207 ft wide. All these ships are unable to negotiate with Panama or Suez canal. The current largest passenger ship is the Queen Mary II, having a length of 1132 ft & width of 134 feet, while Voyager of the Seas and the Explorer of the Seas, both are 1,020 feet long and 158 feet wide!, with a tonnage of 140,000 and carry roughly 3,000 passengers with crew, run by Royal Caribbean International Cruises.

Oasis of the seas is another entry into the passenger line ship, having a length: 1181 ft, and 154 ft wide, claiming a capacity of 5400 passengers!!

The legendary Titanic, was not popularized until after the incident & its movie by James Cameron . It was only about 883 feet long, 93 feet wide, and weighed 45,000 tons, with the facilities of a squash court, swimming pool, and a gymnasium. She could hold 3,500 passengers with crews but life boats were too short roughly for 1,000 passengers i.e. why worst kind of catastrophe had happened. It was claimed that ‘Not even God could sink that ship’ but what had happened….It was sink in its very first trip. In future there is also planning to build aFreedom Ship (a floating city), the ever largest passenger vessel. It has a proposed length of 4,500 feet!, with a width of 750 feet, and a height of 350 feet, if built it would be more than 4 times longer than the Queen Mary II.

Ending Note: The Gaddani could be the fantastic visiting place for public too, as now & then ships are brought here for scrapping purpose like famous Sea Giant or Lady Diana’s Royal ships were brought for final doom. But perhaps mean money earners industrialists has no time for such stupid thinking, except making quick money.

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MANGHOPIR CROCODILE FESTIVAL & SHEDIS

By Aftab Ahmed Baloch It is almost over two days and nights; the Shedi devotees of Manghopir has been dancing and praying together with a rising frenzy of passion & piety. The fearless march towards the crocodile pond begins, people including women and children singing on the African drumbeat in a strange mixed language of Swahili & Balochi, even after generations to generations the ritual is unchanged. Finally they’ve approached the algae loaded water pond, where some pairs of crocodile eyes are floating on the surface. A chunk of meat from a freshly sacrificed goat suddenly thrown to ‘moro sahib’ (the chief of crocodiles, the eldest one). The creature gulps the chunk, and dives into the water! The obligation has been accepted. Everybody cries out with joy & dance with more zeal. Now people begin to feed remaining reptiles. The sacred fiesta continues for another 2-3 days, visitors come & offer fresh meat, pray at the shrine of Sufi Sakhi Sultan (Mangopir) and go away… this ritual has been happening for centuries. Dear readers this interesting place is nothing but Manghopir, a remote settlement of Karachi, names after Pir Mangho, a place of famous sufi shrine, a home to natural sulpher geyser or hot springs which have curative powers for skin diseases and the abode of crocodiles - believed to be the disciples of Pir Mangho. Balochs often call this place as ‘Mangi’ or Garm Aap (due to presence of natural hot springs). Mangopir’s dance & crocodile festival, probably unique around the world, which shows how this ancient African custom has blended with Islamic mysticism & Balochi culture!

SHEDIS & FESTIVAL: Before, I cut open mysteries of the festival & its roots, let me tell you something about Shedis, one of the Pakistan's smallest ethnic community with dark-skinned, curly-haired, who are said to be the descendants of African slaves brought from Zanzibar and vigorously maintains their distinct African identity in the midst of the dominating South Asian cultures. Presently, these African-Pakistanis live in various part of Pakistan like in Karachi (Lyari, Malir, Moaach Goth, Manghopir) and some in interior Sindh at Badin and in Balochistan at Lasbella etc. but majority of them are living in Lyari, due to the fact, this place is often called ‘Little Africa’. In Baghdadi, Lyari (an abode of such ethnicity) there are places which named after Shedi Village or Nairobi. During the British rulers or even before, Baghdadi and many areas in Lyari functioned as the colony of slaves. Women from these minorities worked as nannies for the children of Hindu traders”. Later, these people amalgamated themselves with local Balochs and also adopted various Balochi & Islamic traditions, besides maintaining their own distinct African cultural heritage. For example, some African pro festivals like Gowaati, Layvaa (dancing across the fire), dhammal, beating Congo Drums & many witchcrafts are no doubt the only ‘things’ that still connects them to Africa! A prominent Urdu poet and Lyari citizen, Mr. N.M. Danish, proudly claims to be the great-great-grandchild of an African slave from Zanzibar. “Now after centuries of amalgamation, these peoples are proudly called themselves as Baloch. ORIGIN OF PIR MANGHOP / MANGHOPIR & CROCODILES:

The root of this festival is connected with Pir Mangho, originally is a Sufi saint Sakhi Sultan. Legend says that Sakhi Sultan (later known as Pir Mangho) was one of the disciples of Baba Farid, (a well-known saint of Punjab) who was so pleased with Mangho due to his devotion and meditation that he gave him the title of ‘Pir’, thus Mangho became a saint equally respected by both Hindus and the Muslims. The crocodiles are an integral part of the shrine and chronicle of the saint and are so tightly interwoven that it is almost impossible to judge between fact & fiction. There are many traditions about myth of crocodiles, like it is believed that Baba Farid Ganj-e-shakar gifted reptiles to Manghopir. Second myth is quite fictional, i.e. during a visit of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar (who was also a celebrated saint of Sindh), in order to make the barren valley more inhabitable, had caused a hot spring to issue forth from the rock and a grove of date palms to spring up from the ground and the crocodiles were originally leapt out lice of Saint Baba Farid, which he then gifted to Pir Mango, to put them into the pond and then each turned into a crocodile! When according to some reasonable / scientific explanation, the crocodiles were introduced in Manghopir by Mor Mubarak (a saint), who brought them from a cave in Korangi, as a result, after the name of saint, the chief of crocodiles (the eldest one) came to be known as ‘Mor Sahib’.

Historians also told that these crocodiles were actually carried through with giant floods and later resided into this pond. Archaeological evidence also suggests the existence of a Bronze Age settlement (2500-1700 BC) in the vicinity, who used to worship crocodiles and before the advent of Islam crocodiles were also thought sacred for Hindus.

THE FESTIVAL & MAKING PLEDGES (MANNATS):

This unique festival is regularly celebrated every year during the 3rd Islamic month of Rabbiul-Awwal and runs for a week. The colorful rituals of the Shedi tribe also flavored this festival a uniquely African touch. The festival attracts many people of all ethnic groups, besides people make their mannats (pledges) at the shrine of Pir Mangho through offering fresh sacrificial meat (to the crocodiles ( the sacred disciples), so that their obligations can be fulfilled. Shedis also believe that the creatures do not harm the saint's followers. The highlight of the Manghopir festival also known as ‘Shedi Mela’ is the garlanding ceremony during which the gaddi nasheen (the holy successor) puts a garland, made of flowers around the neck of chief of crocodiles (the Mor Sahib). Success of this sacrament depends solely on the mood of creature. But according to it keeper, the large reptile obliges most of the time and voluntarily presents himself for the ritual, obviously chunks of meat do the job easy. As with almost all such holy shrines, Manghopir's shrine is also located on a small hill. Underneath small green painted tomb, the grave of Sufi saint remains uttered with embroidered silk fabrics (the Chahdar), the flowers & what not holy, while outside musicians with traditional instruments sing praises for the saint. The saint's followers are mainly Shedis, during the festival the tomb is washed with sandalwood and rose water. Outside the shrine premises, there are various stalls and mini-shops, selling knickknacks and items associated with the shrine.

Nearby is a pond, measuring about 400 feet long and 200 feet wide, which nourished by an underground stream, contains hundreds of crocodiles from six to seven feet in length. ‘Mor Sahib – the Chief of Crocodiles (the eldest one) is about 100 years old and over 12 feet in length. The flourishing breeding has made the pond too small for the expanding crocodile population, as crocodile is a rough & tough creature and famous for its longevity. Now, this great heritage is under threat due to the water shortage & space shrinkage. Some influential persons has also achieved illegal water pumping at the natural source of freshwater, resultantly, very little water trickles into the pond," During the week-long festival) among Shedis, a large number of people also arrive from all over Sindh, Balochistan and southern Punjab. There is much joy & fun around when caravans of devotees make their way to the shrine.

As the Sindh Auqaf Department, Govt. of Pakistan regularly appoints official caretaker for such shrines & holy places. These caretaking job normally inherited & family based, like son after father. This shrine too has a caretaker to upkeep crocodiles & the shrine. But as usual in Pakistan, the Auqaf department is not paying proper attention to this sacred & wonderful place except regular devotees, who flock to the shrine, and semi-aquatics get a regular supply of fresh meat. Anyone desirous of having his wish fulfilled, usually slaughters a goat or sheep and offers fresh meat to crocodiles. Large daigs of Biryanis are also cooked in different occasions for free distribution to visitors & beggars.

HOT / HEALING SPRINGS & OLD GRAVES: There are also hot springs at a distance of about kilometer from the shrine. Warm water passing through the sulphur rocks contains some medicinal qualities and many people with skin diseases reach here to have a bath for cure. Apart from local bathing ponds, there are also reserved hot bath facility for man & woman who can afford. Folks from long distances regularly visit here to cure themselves. Scientific analysis also shows that this warm water is naturally saturated with carbon dioxide, besides containing some sulpher elements which is no doubt possess antiseptic qualities for certain skin diseases. Nearby shrine, there are also beautiful graves made of engraved yellow stones, probably couple of hundred years old. These graves resembles to those found in Makli (interior Sindh), but now due to negligence the graves are in shabby conditions.

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From Lyari to Australia

By Aftab Ahmed Baloch

Disclaimer: This article is the product of hard research work & has also been published in the daily Dawn, Sunday, January 13, 2002 (Magazine section). For any use, permission of the author is requested. From various sources & persons who are said to be the close relatives of Dost Muhammad Baloch, it is learnt that Mrs. Jane Garnand, granddaughter of Dost Muhammad Brohi came to Pakistan, Karachi in the year 1993. Her basic mission and aim for visiting Karachi was to find out the family roots of her grand father Dost Muhammad & grave of her slain grand-mother, Annie (wife of Dost Muhammad Brohi) who was assassinated in Sharafi Garden, Malir, Karachi on 8th Aug, 1910. She was referred by the then Commissioner of Karachi to meet with Mr. Sattar Gabol, former Minister during Zulfiquar Ali Bhutto’s tenure. She stayed in Karachi for about 10 days, during that period, she met with the family of Dost Muhammad & Zorak and visited several related places to find out the grave of her grand-mother, which after thorough search, she learnt that it was at a former graveyard near, British Embassy in Clifton, Karachi. Based on this experience, Mrs. Jane Garnand has written a book by the title of “STORY OF MY GRAND FATHER FROM LAL BAKKAR TO AUSTRALIA”.

Mrs. Jane’s husband was a diplomat of Australia, and was also stationed at China, but he is now a retired person. Jane Garnand and her family are now living in a city 400 miles away from Sydney and she also remained in contact with Mr. Gabol. The tragic story commence like this: Australia, being a partly-desert country had a need for camels for travel & trade upto to the end of 19th century. Camels from Asian regions, especially from Balochistan & Afghanistan were very popular in Australia. At that time, steam ships were used for traveling abroad and it took several months to reach the destination. Ships commonly employed business routes, plying from India through Burma, Asaam, Sri Lanka and then Australia. It was the time when British had just discovered Australia. Our central character, Dost Muhammad Brohi(born in 1870) was an AMEER (Lord) of his tribe and very much interested in exporting camels to Australia. He first visited Australia and landed at Albany in 1893 to asses the trading opportunities of camels in Australia from British India. After analyzing the need of trading, Dost Muhammad with his elder brother, Zorak (born in 1853) left for Australia in the year 1894 with 25 camels for selling. Few Afghanis were also with them with their camels for business. After trading & selling camels, Zorak left for Karachi & thereafter several time visited Australia for business, while Dost Muhammad, 26, remained in Australia & got married with a British origin girl, Annie, who had been working in a bakery, near his residence in 1896. Life was going happily, Dost Muhammad & Annie had six children (3 Boys & 3 Girls), namely Mustafa, Haggu (nick name Bill), Ilyas, Fatima, Lillian, Janet. Annie had two brothers, namely Harry & Bill but Dost didn’t like them at all because they were all the time drunk, since according to the tradition of Australian, drinking & visiting of friends is common and Dost Muhammad, being a Baloch & Muslim did not like these customs and by nature Dost Muhammad was also a noble & honest person, famous for keeping deposits of people in Lyari. The reasons mentioned above, he had serious disputes with his brothers-in-law and it was also rumored that Dost Muhammad had also broken the arm of one of his brother-in-law, Bill in a quarrel. Afghan friends of Dost Muhammad were also aware of the disputes. These disputes grew deeper, and on the night of April 7, 1909, Bill & Harry killed Dost Muhammad by crushing his skull, using a heavy piece of timber. Bill was the prime suspect, Dost Muhammad died at the spot. Bill & Harry were charged for murder in May, 1909, they were committed for trial and record shows that a correspondence for several years had taken place between the then Prime Minister of Australia and Premier Provincial Minister of British India when the news broke-out in newspapers. This news came to Karachi through Afghan friends and the brothers of Dost Muhammad were shocked, Zorak with his two sons namely, Lal Muhammad & Qadir Bux left for Australia to find out the cause of the murder of his brother and also to see, if there was any property, left by Dost Muhammad in Australia, because Zorak was the executor of Dost Muhammad’s will. As per will of the Dost Muhammad, the property left by him was to be divided between Annie and her children when they reached the age of maturity. Zorak pressurized and induced Annie to move to Karachi, (British India – now Pakistan), alongwith her 6 children where they could be given good English education and proper care, Zorak bought one way ships tickets for Australia to Karachi for them but Annie had a suspicion that Zorak will not keep his promise. Annie with her children left for Karachi and two sons of Zorak, namely, Lal Muhammad & Qadir Bux were with Annie in the ship. Annie reached Karachi and stayed at Lal Bakkar & New Kumbharwara, Layri with the relatives of Dost Muhammad. They were treated well because Dost Muhammad was a well-off person. A period of about one year passed peacefully & happily. In Australia, Zorak finally reached to the conclusion that Bill & Harry (Annie’s brothers) were involved in the murder of his brother, he then wrote a letter to his sons in Karachi, namely, Gul Muhammad, Qadir Bux & Rozi, mentioning that Annie was responsible for conspiring with the murderers of their uncle, Dost Muhammad, sayings such stupid words in Balochi in his letter “SPETHEN GOKAA BOKOSHEEN” meaning ‘Kill the white Cow’. Somehow, Annie become aware of the threat to her life and she went to British Authority, seeking help, where-after she was taken alongwith her children to Malir to a residency surrounded by Garden, owned by Sharafees. At a mile’s distance there was a camp of British Security Officers. From the evidence, a group of attackers including sons of Zorak i.e. Gul Muhammad Qadir Bux & Rozi, equipped with knives daggers & axes attacked the house at night of Aug. 08, 1910, where Annie was staying with her 6 children. Annie with her two children were on the same bed while her eldest son, Mustafa, was sleeping outside in Veranda; it is believed that they entered through the window of bathroom, supposedly opened by Mustafa, the eldest son of Dost Mohammad & Annie. The attackers went into the house and attacked Annie with knives & axes, some of her fingers were cut-off, and she resisted but eventually was knifed to death. Some of her children were also wounded and they were taken to the then Lady Dufferin Hospital for treatment. According to findings, a murder attempt was also made earlier, but there was a dog guarding the house and it had failed. Zorak’s three sons, namely, Gul Muhammad, Qadir Bux & Rozi were arrested by the British India Police and charged with murder. Rozi & Qadir Bux were released due to non availability of solid evidence, but Gul Muhammad, being the prime suspect, remained in jail for about one more year. Zorak was also wanted by the police but he was in Australia. Finally 5 children were sent to Australia, with a British Officer, except eldest son, Mustafa, aged about 12, as it was believed that he was involved with the attackers, by making their way clear. But later investigation proved it wrong and Mustafa because of fear, remained in Karachi, married & died here, he also paid a visit to Australia when he was young.

From the sources found, it is disclosed that Dost Muhammad & Annie had six children, (3 boys & 3 girls), namely Mustafa, Haggu (nick name Bill), Ilyas, Fatima, Lillian, Janet. Mustafa, & Lillian had no children, while Haggu/Bill had children. Rozi’s (Son of Zorak) son & many other relatives are still living in Kumbharwara, Lyari, Karachi. *************** FACTS FILE ABOUT THE STORY: ü Dost Muhammad Brohi born in 1870 in Lal Bakkar, Maripur. ü Jorak, elder brother of Dost Muhammad born in 1853 in Lal Bakkar ü Dost Muhammad’s first visit to Australia in 1893 (when he was 23) ü Dost Muhammad’s second visit to Australia in 1894 (when he was 24) ü Dost Muhammad & Annie was married in 1896 (when he was 26) ü Period of Marriage about 13 ½ years ü Dost Muhammad was murdered in Australia in 7.4.1909 (when he was 39) ü Annie was murdered in Malir, Karachi in 8.8.1910 ü Annie spent time in Karachi till her assassination about 1 Year & four months ü Number of Children of Dost & Annie were 6 (3 boys & 3 girls)

ü Name of the Children 1) Mustafa – boy (he lived, married & died in Karachi), he had no children 2) Haggu or Bill – boy 3) Ilyas - boy 4) Fatima – girl 5) Lillian –girl (had no children) 6) Genet ü Both Dost Muhammad & Annie were murdered while sleeping ü Name of brothers of Annie who involved in murder of Dost Muhammad

1) Harry, 2) Bill ü Harry & Bill charged for murder of Dost Muhammad in May, 1909 ü Jane Garnand grand-daughter of Dost Muhammad visited Karachi in 1993 stayed for about 10 days

KARACHI WALAY & THEIR CHARACTERISTICS

By Aftab Ahmed Baloch

Before the article:

Dear readers the following article (based upon my personal observations) is about beautiful people of Karachi & their different cultural behaviors i.e. traits fused in different flavors & backgrounds….. The article is in pure ‘awami language’ & uncensored! While elaborating the article & digging through realities (whatever good or bad), I tried to remain objective, however, the purpose of article is not to disparage any minority’s culture or religious belief. It will also be helpful for all kind of tourists. 

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It is Karachi, the mini Pakistan! A jungle of concrete, consisting of different people all over Pakistan from diverse ethnic & rich social / cultural / religious backgrounds. On one hand, it is the abode of early Baloch settlers (the aborigines), the Memons, Kachis, Sindhis, Agha Khanis, Parsis, Christians, Hindus on the other hand it is the abode of Indian returned Mohajirs (now claimant of the city) i.e. Urdu speaking folks, Pakhtoons, Punjabis, Afghanis, Bengalis, Burmese etc. Muslim majority are further ‘categorized’ in unending ‘religious series’ / sects like Sunni, Shiite, Brailvee, Deobandi, and Ahel-e-Hadeeth etc.Karachi, which began as a small fishing village has now emerged as the largest populated city of Pakistan with a population of over 18 Millions, whereas it was only comprised of about 9,000 citizens in 1846!. Being an economic magnet, the city is like Dubai both for the people arriving from remote parts of the country and for the illegal immigrants like Afghanis, Bengalis, Burmese, Nepalese but Karachi is ‘generous enough’ to provide them jobs, shelters, facilities in return of nothing but troubles. Now the human flood have blown up all the district boundaries of the city, currently stretching from superhighway (Hyderabad) to the sea coast of Hawks bay, Paradise Point & other beach sites upto Bin Qasim Port.UNIQUE NATURE OF THE CITY:One of the uniqueness of Karachi (which is extinct in other famous world cities) is it tolerance that each & every minority maintain their own cultural identity, lifestyles, based on different locations. In Karachi cultural diversity changes from kilometer to kilometer. For example, in Karachi, Keamari or Patail Para are the places of Pakhtoons, where Pakhtoon diverse culture is in full swing. Here you can find naswar or gizmo shops, tea stalls, Chapli Kababs, Pakhtoon music altogether, similarly Kharadar is known for Memons / Agha Khanis, where beautiful Memon girls can be seen near Bantva Hospital or Paria street. Special memni dishes are also available here. This place is one of the congested parts of the city, where every nook & corner is occupied by shops, flats etc. There is no playground or open places, because Memons are quite famous for their willingness to money, they’ll die for it. There are various jokes for Memons. For example, if a Memon falls to the ground, there must be money on it. Attached Kharadar is the oldest settlement of Karachi i.e. Lyari which is known for Balochs, besides Kachis, Bohris & Memons are too residing there. This area is quite notorious for gangsters & dacoits. Normally, after sunset, taxi & rickshaw drivers hesitate to book passengers for this place. Balochs wear their typical large shalwar & small qameez, besides ladies use typical Balochi dresses. There is also a little Africa in Lyari, where dark skinned people abode. Their descendents were brought from Zanzibar as slaves during British rule around 1850s to 1900s. (my Lyari based articles like ‘The new Lyari & the Land of magic will give you more insights about this minority). Now we’ll discuss the ‘sole owners’ of city, yes the Bhai log (the Urdu speaking folks). They are those who were migrated from India during pre-partition, instead of their eye opening sacrifice, no province accepted them, except Sindhis & Balochis, initially they were given land near Mazar-e-Quaid, but now are grabbing major portion of the city. Thanks to city Nazim Mustafa Kamal’s vision, various part of the city and major Urdu speaking areas have changed in overnight. Beautiful bridges, under passes, bus stops are the hallmark of city. Majority of Urdu speaking areas are known as Nazimabad, Nagan Chowrangi, North Karachi, Gulshan-e-Iqbal, Gulistan-e-Jauhar, Gulshan-e-Hadeed etc. Roads, buildings & streets in their dominant areas can be seen illustrated with Qaid pics & farmaans (here Qaid means Altaf Hussain & not Quaid-e-Azam). In these areas, level of education is quite higher, & without doubt every Mohajir‘s home carries the largest number of educated people as compared to any nationalities in Karachi i.e. why they enjoy 90% of jobs in public / private sectors but still they considered them as ‘mazloom’. Dress codes for male Mohajirs are normally pant shirts, while girls wear latest fashion shalwar qameez & jeans. Saari (a typical Indian dress) is also used by older ladies during their marriage ceremonies. The famous stage comedian Mr. Omar Sharif also belongs from this community. They are also the inventor of Bori culture i.e. during Mutahida/ Haqiqi clash, they targeted each other by killing & throwing the body in flour bags (borees). The place for Bengalis is at Machar colony (Machar means mosquitoes, because this is the dirties place in Karachi, where poor Bengalis are ‘kept’), Majority of the male & female Bengalis perform labor jobs at fisheries, factories or house maids / servants besides all the of sugarcane extracting machines in city are mostly owned & operated by Bengalis. Malir is known for Sindhis, where they enjoy their unique culture. Sindhis love their land so much & they are quite attached with their forefather’s culture i.e. why they are found in less number in Karachi city area as compared to urban. There is no specific place in Karachi for Punjabis, although there exists Punjab Chowrangi, near DHA, which is a posh area, Punjabis are rather scattered in all city. Majority of male Punjabis are in the police, rangers & working as security guards, while females do their jobs as a Nurse, teacher, police lady & what not as prostitutes! Yes, I bet Punjabi girls fulfill the 90% ‘demand’ of the country; girls from Lahore & Gujrat are brought in Karachi for this ‘business’. Every minority in Karachi maintains their own culture without adopting others and this has been happening for centuries. This approach also provide security & power and during various ethnic violence, it proved correct & also wrong in the meaning that any individual, belonging from specific minority cannot trespass other areas during the time of ethnic violence.

For example, recently during Pakhtoon Mohajir ethnic clash, both Mohajirs & Pakhtoons were targeted in opposite areas. Because of this many areas within Karachi have become as ‘No go areas’. Back in the past, several hundred people were targeted & slaughtered during Muttahida & Haqiqi clash (interestingly both parties are from Urdu speaking), similarly in Lyari, during gang war various areas were divided & controlled by different mafia, where they target & kill opponents, irrespective of the fact that they are from the same race.

 THE HARD SHELL RACIST:

In Karachi there are also minorities living in hard shell or within boundaries, they are totally isolated, and nobody knows much about them. The best examples are the Bohra community (followers of Syedana Burhanuddin or Faitimi). They are famous for their stubborn behavior, though in minority they cater a large leading business groups in Karachi and they are the prime holders in hardware, glass & paint business. Bohris, living in Hyderi are much richer than living in Lyari.

Like their close cousin Memons, Bohris are famous for their miserliness and mean behavior, and they are always found within tight boundaries & groups, and they do not live separately or individually. Their every friendship, kinship & romance is within community. Their compounds are always surrounded by boundary walls so that no outsider can enter. They, for any business, always deal with their own kind. Normally they are not interested or encourage the cross relation, marriage or friendship with other nationalities, because violation means total bereavement or expulsion from the Jamaat.

Their men often wear traditional white cap having golden embroidery with Kurta / Pajamas while their women use Burka (consisting in two parts in light colors with face open). According to their religious belief, women rarely use any make-up or lipsticks for any occasion. The face of any Bohri girl will be zombie like & impression free, the reason is according to their religious understanding they circumcise their girls like men in early age (before puberty), by removing clitoris (erectile organ of vulva) which is assumed as a sex point. Thus a Bohri girl is by borne sex free & boring. For them, mating is only for producing children, hence not to satisfy sexual desires. This surgical removal ritual is also performed in other part of Muslim countries like Egypt & Africa. In every Bohri shop you’ll find a photo hanging, of their Peer (Syedna Burhanuddin). Bohri men & women together go to their mosque and chant in high tones, like Christians during their prayer service. They celebrate their Eid & Ramadan, slightly in different days as compared to other Muslim minorities. They also arrange group marriages, when their Peer arrives from abroad. It is quite compulsive for any Bohri men & women that they must attend their all sacred ceremonies.

As a religious group, beside Bohris, the Agha Khanis (often known as Khojas – the disciples of Prince Karim Agha Khan) are also known for their narrow mindedness / racist approach. In their every institution, they prefer their own people, be it hospitals, schools or other organizations. They also hang their Peer’s portrait in their every places. In Schools, they prefer their own community’s children, which can be endorsed through their Admission Forms, containing ‘SECT’ section to be filled compulsory. In school’s class rooms, children from Non-Agha Khanis (if they are fortunate enough to get admission after handsome paying of donations) are normally seated at the back rows & this fact was revealed by various non Agha Khanis students! Agha Khan Hospital is the most notorious place for extracting huge amount of money. If anyone dies, they do not discharge dead bodies without paying outstanding dues.

In Karachi, people from other religious sects like Shiite are also known for their ‘boundary wall approach’. In Karachi there are whole colonies of Shiites can be found where they practice their own belief system. During marriages & even friendship this weighs more importance, whereas Katchis, Marvarees & to some extent Balochs are also known for their rigid approach, non community relations & especially cross marriages do not exist all.

TRIBALISM & RELIGIOUS GIMMICKS :

Wherever there is rigid tribalism, there lies backwardness. This phenomena can be understood more easily if we compare global examples like Aborigines of Australia, Red Indians, Afghans, various African / Indian Tribes i.e. those who were not fit in the evolutionary chain or their approach to adaptations has either become wiped out or slow. Religious fever (if clashed with culture) also eats up cultural traits & identity and a prime cause of backwardness. Here in Karachi (the mini Pakistan) same formula goes. The areas which are packed with tribal thinking people are much lower in standard & progress than the areas which occupied by multi ethnic, educated and moderate people. For example there are Kachi abadies & colonies in Karachi of different minorities which are much lower in standard & progress. The reason is the people with tribal mentality are progress retarded, they don’t believe in dynamism, besides the deliberate government negligence is also part of the problem. The Pathans are known as Qabza Group in the city, be it Keamari, Shereen Jinnah Colony, Patail Para, Banaras, hills of Manghopir, Landhi / Korangi, SITE area or Pakhtoon population near railway tracks of Baloch Colony etc. all these less developed areas are packed with Pakhtoon brothers where they enjoy their typical culture, 90% of local transport business has been owned by Pathans what's more that religious extremism is the part & parcel of their lives. 99% percent of suicide bombers are of Afghan or Pakhtoon origin. They also have eased the job of Ministry of Population & Welfare by blowing them out with 30-60 causalities on routine basis with direct ticket to Janna or running over folks through trucks, dumpers & mini buses are their favorite hobbies as any Khan Saab (arriving from northern mountains in Karachi) can get easy license to kill (driving license) & begin to roam the city.

While elaborating other minority’s religious understanding, Mohajirs are mostly belonged to Brailvee (Durood and Melaad lover) or Ahlul Hadeeth sect, they can also be Shiites, but in case of Shiites the priority will be given to religious identity.

In Karachi every religious sect, according to its own understanding & belief provide un-ending entertainment packed with miseries throughout the year to Karachites . For this, Barailvees (wearing green turbans or hari pagris) & Shiites are attention-grabbing examples. The religious bigots from Brailvee wear ‘green turban’ – also known as parrot of paradise are the disciple of Moulana Shah Ahmed Noorani / Saleem Qadri (Late) & majority are Kharadar living Memons or Urdu speaking, who actively conduct various Milaads, Jalsaa, Naat sessions. Faizan-e- Madina near old sabzi mandi is their sacred place where they frequently conduct ‘festival’ for earning thawab. Sweet confectioners & Mithai wala are also thankful to them, because in their every milaad & festival they distribute Mithai or Sharbat. Especially the occasion of 12th of Rabbial Awwal (Anniversary day of Holy Prophet Muhammad(swt) is worth to watch. Truck loaded processions from Numaish to Kharadar are conducted, during nights buildings are decorated with beautiful green & flashing lights. In Kharadar replica of Gunbat-e-Khizara (the green tomb) is displayed, which provide ‘live show’ for the people who cannot afford to go in Madina. While innocent folks also pay their Durood-o-salaam to the replica. Couple of years back a blast took place at Nashtar park, where hundreds of people were killed including top level Brailvee religious leaders . It was also rumored that MQM was behind that attack, the purpose was to eliminate the leadership of Brailvee.

Shiites are not lagging behind in this field but have an upper hand. Although Shiites are in minority but they enjoy much dominance & freedom in country as compared to any other sects in Pakistan. Their people always remain on the key posts, be it field of politics, economy, security, or showbiz etc. In the month of Moharram, (especially from 7th to 10th), mourning processions (Mathami Juloos) are organized, where the mourners (including women) participate in black dress, mock-up of Hazrat Imam Husain’s Horse (known as Duldul), his tombs models, water or sharbat sabeels are installed in the walkways of the city. During Juloos people beat them with both hands crying Ya Hussain! Ya Hussain! High caliber Shiites simply act with one hand, while the hired one beat them cruelly with both hands, even with knives, chains & swords, bleeding all-around. The ambulance also accompanied for providing emergency medical aid. The mourners begins from Soldier Bazaar and finish at Husania Iranian (Kharadar). There are also separate mourning arrangements for women & girls at Kharadar & various Imam Bargahas of city, where beautiful girls in black grieving dresses looks just fine.

On December 28, 2009 (i.e. 10th of Moharram), a usual Shiite Ashura procession was on his way, when it reaches at M.A. Jinnah Road, a suicide bomber blew himself, causing 50 die & 100 injured, including children. This painful event is further followed by torching of 3000 shops in entire Bolton Market, which left several Memon community’s shop keepers helpless.

Such emotional trends are quite ‘common’ among Karachites since 27-12-2007 (the day of the riots when Benazir was assassinated).

It could also be a preplanned technique from the part of MQM, i.e. why they are crying too much over the incident & claiming that the shopkeepers will be ‘compensated’. It is amazing that after the incident the M.A. Jinnah Road was totally forbidden for the local people. There were only Shiite Mourners, Police & Rangers, helpers of CDGK, or grieving shopkeepers, except them nobody was allowed to trespass the area. Finally in such a limited time, fire can only be spread through special chemicals, the similar chemicals that was used during Denso Hall blazing event when Lawyers office were burnt down by MQM folks.

Now since Memon Community have sympathy for Jamaat –Ahlul Sunnah, and it is the best time for MQM to grab their sympathy for helping them to claim their losses. M.A. Jinnah Road has further been closed for 2-days, so that all evidences can be ‘washed out’ easily. Such notions are quite common in Pakistan….

Amazingly, all ‘Islamic Scholars’ have mutually agreed that it was a ‘conspiracy’, & they are not willing to accept that the root cause was not the conspiracy but the procession itself i.e. in such situation when country is in war with terror, such processions could be postponed or simply diverting the route can save from huge damages. But again when it is the matter of religion, nobody will speak….

The Insurance companies are also giving news that majority of burned shops were not insured as 80% shop owners were not interested for Insurance, as they consider it as ‘un-Islamic’.

Finally after all this drama the burden will be on consumers in form of price hikes & shortage.

In Kharadar there is beautiful gothic styled Agha Khanis mosque where community’s man, women & children, gather during their sacred days or when Prince Kareem Agha Khan, arrives from France or England. It is strange that Prince Kareem has English wife besides his mother was also from European origin. Agha Khani girls are quite beautiful & liberal, but they only prefer relations with their own community. Among Agha Khan’s version of Islam, their sacred leaders perform weird rituals, as one can find in pictures where a ‘spiritual leader’ is kissing & hugging beautiful teen girls… it is also rumored that among Agha Khanis, during marriage, first night of brides are always with spiritual leaders, they open the cane like ancient kings of England…

There are also shrine worshippers of Sufi saints, i.e. Peer parast In Kachchi abadies or colonies. This religious gimmick is favorite among lower & middle class women which includes Balochs, Makranis, Sindhis & Memons too. Such visiting places are shrine of Baba Abdullah Shah Ghazi at Clifton. Couple of years back, it was customary among Baloch grooms to pay obligatory visit to the shrine of Abdullah Shah Ghazi to earn his ‘blessing’. Miran Peer at Lea Market, believed to be a holy shrine of a virgin pious lady, (a strict visiting place for ladies only where even pregnant women also avoid to enter because of a ‘possibility’ of miscarriage in case a boy baby in her womb!.. During my deep research, it was also found that Halala service is also offered in Meera Peer, where Faqeers are available. Manghopir is also a wondrous place for the presence of crocodile and three days annual festival where Shedi disciples offer dhamal dance which is fun to watch. Actually Karachi is full of shrines, at every nook & corner, a Sufi saint is lying….

 Like in Manora, Kharadar, Garden, Mewa Shah Graveyards, Kalapul, Shershah, Maripur where majority of ladies frequently visit. Almost all attendants of sacred shrines (known as Mujawar) are drug addicts besides prostitute also roam in such shrines. In such Mazar, for creating mystic environment, scented wood (agar batti) are flamed, which gives out perfumed smoke & audio tapes of Sindhi folk singers like Abida Parveen, Allan Faquir are also played-back. Although it is out of topic but worth to mention that during the Anniversary or Urs of Sehwan Shareef (Lal Shahbaz Qalandar); the devout disciples (all over country) pay obligatory visits & put their Mannats (spiritual offers) in form of Chaadars, Degs, Gold & currency. Dozens of daigs are cooked for free distribution to shrine visitors & custodian. The Anniversary also attracts a large no. of Khusras (eunuchs), prostitutes & gays across the country & under cover of festival; sexual services are provided in different local hotels, restaurants & huts..There is also a Hindu temple, near KPT & Naiti Jeti Bridge, a beautiful place near PNSC building. Naiti Jaiti bridge is also famous where people (whatever riches or poor often throw dough made stuff & food junks for fishes so that their obligations (mannat) can be fulfilled. This may be equally spreading pollution but when it comes to matter of ‘belief’ everything is OK. The bridge is also notorious place for suicides and until now hundreds of people threw themselves from the bridge. The view from Naiti Jaiti bridge is superb, depicting a mangrove forest, beautiful PNSC building (which caught fire twice), while a remote view of tallest fountain near Manora is worthwhile to watch.

LAND OF WONDER:

Karachi is also a city of predators, dacoits, thieves, pedophiles, hookers, kidnappers & fraud makers. In Karachi, there are clever elements, championed to extract money from poor folks. Like providing you on the spot lottery schemes, fraudulent crockery exchange schemes, door to door bogus supply of medicines/herbs make-up stuff, above all there are real estate representatives who come to your home & give you good news that you won a plot via some lucky draws! They will ask you to deposit some amount, they’ll also give you brochures & receipt. Many stupid people lost their money for the plot which does not exist at all. There are people on roads who would avail car lift & deprive you from all your belongings. Services of oil massagers’ (Malishiay) are offered on footpaths of Karachi Cantt Station, Saddar, Clifton where male individuals can avail this service, while some massagers also do ‘other jobs’ for desirous persons (no need to clarify) . In order to avail lady massaging facility (most of them are of Chinese origin) there are ‘secret oil massagers’ in stylish beauty parlors at posh area of Tariq Road, Clifton, Zamzama on handsome amount. Now it is time to mention ‘beauty’ of Karachi i.e. hookers or prostitutes. Majority of them are Punjabi & Bengali. New additions are Afghans, Sindhis & Urdu speaking brands. Their rates are linked with the areas, i.e. more posh areas grab more rates. These hookers mostly run & supervised by Auntie type women from Rs.3 to 5000/= (per night), depending on her beauty & age. Teens have more value then aged ones. Bengalis are much cheaper. Any resemblance to Bollywood /Lollywood actresses is like a lottery, where qadardaan love to spend money. Some model typed showbiz hookers run independently & charge more, but their customers are from higher class & notables. Mobile technology has also eased everything. Every park & leisure places are seen with love birds in romantic style, especially the Mazar-e-Quaid (tomb of founder of Pakistan, Muhammad Ali Jinnah) has become a famous dating place.

Their do exist dance party clubs in Karachi but only higher level riches can access these places. During the time of Bhutto, when peace prevailed in the area, foreigners also loved to visit Karachi city, it was also the visiting place for Central Asian hookers during Nawaz Sharif’s time, BUT now after serious security issues in the region, foreign visitors are quite rare. Jahangir Park (Saddar), Empress Market & some places at Sharea Faisal are famous places for gays, pedophiles, homosexuals & eunuchs where Pakhtoons are seen roaming around. Specially eunuchs are picked up in Pajeero Jeeps at Sharea Faisal. Every other flat in Gulistan-e-Jauhar is a place of hookers & ‘suppliers’ where room services for daters are available. For poor & middle class daters, net cafes at Cantt station & else charges less for providing accommodation.Karachi is also a land of witchdoctors, Palmists, Hakeems, Sanyasi babas & peers (spiritual healers) and in most cases having 70 years of age is a must condition for them), besides Specialists doctors / surgeons, who extract a huge amount of fees for a one minute visit. Lower & middle class always look for the cheapest & the footpath magicians (jadoogar) are always their for help. Empress Market, M.A. Jinnah Road, Saddar, Khori Garden, Jodia Bazar, Lea Market & Lyari are the places where various magicians, professors & herb sellers of footpaths, demonstrate their ‘knowledge’ & ‘soghaat’. These magicians now own various shops, with stuffs like mummified lions, bears, cubs, snakes & scorpions and their ‘extracted oils’ , they are generous to provide you some drops of oil for ‘falsification test’. M.A. Jinnah Road is famous for selling Sanday ka tail i.e. oil of lizard like animal for improving sexual power (Shakti). The scene is really gruesome when lizard is slaughtered & cooked in the boiling oil… The oil after filtered and sold to the willing person.

AREA = STANDARD OF LIVING:

Here different areas have their own dress code & style, according to standard. So if you see a boy wearing shorts / shirt with latest jell hairstyle or probably with a ponytail (which is still a hallmark of modernization), with a blue tooth device fixed in ear, then you are in a posh area of Karachi like Zamzama, DHA or Muhammad Ali Housing Society, PECHS or Hyderi, but know-a-days areas of Gulistan-e-Jauhar, Gulshan-e-Iqbal and some extent to North Nazimabad are also becoming posh, where girls are seen with skin fitted jeans and belly showing shirts. On diversity, a Kharadar living boy can be identified with his brownish & paan tainted teeth, wearing Shalwar Qameez & girls are in full hijaab. The burqa, which is used by traditional Madarassas going girls are designed so tactfully that it is almost impossible to view any part of the body. Black hand gloves, black socks, especially designed sleeves that carries wearable thread ring so that in case of rising hand, sleeves couldn’t slip down…

With the passage of time different things have become the status of symbols in Karachi. Earlier it was bulky sized mobiles (people carried in their hands), later the mineral water bottle, stylish paper bags with some famous brand logo. Now it is wearable blue tooth devices & wearing organization’s machine readable cards are also becoming fashion. If an individual carries a black leather bag, with tie & jelled hair (as if he is an MBA student) are ideal ways to impress someone. In Karachi riches are further classified in two further categories. One is from ‘Landlord Class’ (whose forefathers were from urban areas, mostly engaged in ‘Cock fighting, or probably illiterate politicians) & the other class is ‘Industrialists Class’ (whose forefathers were literate, even graduated from oxford or Harvard). The landlord class still love to use old ‘Pajero’ or Toyota 4 x 4 as their ideal vehicle and they use traditional type of clothing, they are technology retard , they use simple mobile phones just to scroll up & down phonebook, lover of traditional foods like Chicken Tikka, Nihaari, Biryaani, Paey etc. Their ladies are confined in their gothic styled bungalow & use less fashion, but their newer generation are rebellious. For entertainment they mostly rely on simple cable-TV & Satellite, as compared to Industrialist class which uses hi-tech Blue Ray home theatre System with larger HD displays, for communication they rely on Blackberry, equipped with GPRS & e-mail system. For vehicles they use BMW Land cruisers or cars, Audi & Opel are also there, only the fortunate one must have a Ferrari with James bond style suiting & a lot of club memberships and don’t talk about Industrialist’s class girls, mostly opt for latest designed fashion apparels. But religious extremism is also emerging from these two upper class & it is not wondering to witness a sacred dressed family in a precious 4 wheelers.

Zamzama (Boulevard) is the most expensive area of Karachi, where haircutting saloons often charge a huge amount for services, while the Clifton Shopping Mall, Glass Tower or Agha’s Super Market are the ideal place for riches to shop. Whilst, speaking about diversity, in the same city Jamma Cloth, Saddar, Ranchor Lane, Laloo Kaith are the bazaars for lower or medium class, where prices of same goods are half in comparison to posh area market.Light House or Lunda bazaar, where used imported fabrics or goods including shoes, bags & stuff are sold by Pakhtoon or Afghans was once an ideal place for poor but is no more attractive as riches also buy from here. Due to frequent visit of riches Pathans have become smart money makers. In Lunda Bazaar one can find anything like from a nighty, underwear to Jeans, Jackets, three piece suits, recycled toys, sport wear, carpets, curtains to shorts & skirts which are used by Christian dwellers of Saddar / Empress Market. Jodia Bazaar is also one of the oldest Karyana Bazaar of the city where Memon shopkeepers dominates by selling foodstuffs & spices on whole sale or retail basis. During the month of Ramadan these dealers extracts huge amounts from people by creating artificial shortage.

Living standards in Karachi varies from place to place. For example, alongwith the wide crescent shore, riches live in Gothic or Californian-style mansions, or one floored super luxury apartments in which the size of their bathroom are much larger than Bengali’s whole house who are living in Machar Colony. The latest craze among the very wealthy is to have a Lion cub, German Sheppard dog, or having a Filipina maids in a country where more than a third of the population lives below the poverty line, & people have been forced to queue for buying subsidized flour or sugar. The spoiled kids wearing branded goods & vehicles roam with their armed bodyguards. While their mothers wear silk made Shalwar Kameez or Sarees designed by some famous fashion designer with Diamanté Chanel sunglasses & Gucci purse. In contrast are barefooted kids, working as an assistant (chotay) or running after cars for the mechanic jobs at Tibet Centre / Plaza, while their mothers search fabric cut pieces at Ranchor Lane to stitch clothes for earnings.

TRAFFIC, CIVIC & OTHER SENSES:

Almost all Karachites (be them from any creed or race) have zero level traffic sense. The reason is obvious that they are not learned anything about civic or traffic sense. Be it from media or school syllabus, one can hardly find any topic on it. Not only illiterate but educated people too are of reluctant to the matter. Here people blindly walk on main roads, even though a footpath is there. Being indifferent to hear vehicle’s horn is yet another quality of Karachites & in case of any mishap only drivers are taken into account. Obeying traffic signals is against the dignity of people, as an outcome daily accidents are common. Corrupt system of availing driving license, damaged roads, & corrupt traffic constables are yet other reasons. Here traffic wardens warn or catch people just for the sake of money & not for violations. Transport mafia is mostly consisted of Pakhtoons & the majority of public transport is based upon rusted & outfitted mini buses & coaches. Yet city government is trying to improve the situation by importing more CNG buses for the citizens. In Karachi, it is customary that if any driver makes a mistake other will curse him through abusive language or showing curse sign (lanat). Sometimes, verbal abuse between passengers & driver / conductor grows to physical abuse, i.e. why Pathan drivers always keep an iron rod with them…

While talking of Traffic & roads, beggars are yet other distractions for city dwellers. Every busy street, food places & markets are full of professional beggars, which are run by mafia. Whenever a vehicle stops at signal, beggars with tactful words & mostly with their monkeys arrived to make fool people. New additions are smart girl beggars who can compile anyone to put a five rupee coin in her hand. In the posh area of DHA Clifton, Tariq Road, beautiful Afghan girls (in guise of beggar) can ‘empty’ your pocket in no time. Bus Stands are occupied by wonderful magicians, palmists, professors, where you can find about your past, future & present. Traveling in public transport is a fun & wonderful adventure in Karachi. Many public vehicles including buses & mini buses belong to 60-70s. There are new arrivals of CNG buses but their numbers are very low. Transporters usually illustrate their buses with traditional designs, poetry, calligraphy etc. from inside out; and they always paint it with current model year like 2009, 2008 etc. W-11 is an internationally popular mini bus rout in Karachi which is famous for its typical decoration. In America or some western country a public tram is being run which has been redesigned like W-11. Sometimes bus drivers shift all passengers to other buses, before reaching their destination and passengers don’t have any choice but to obey. Unlike India, in public transport, females are separated behind iron walls, where hardly anyone can see ‘anything, but some Karachi adventurers are smart to make or find an ‘appropriate hole’ for ‘some experiments’, which sometimes turn into tragedy and in case the individual is caught, all sympathy will go for ‘hers, it can also lead to torture of accused & expulsion from bus. Traveling salesmen or mobile hawkers are also found in local transport, selling everything from Chinese ballpoints, balloons, surmas which help to leave spectacles, eateries to medicines & kushtas, with challenging words like “Agar Pasand na Aye to Bus say bahar phaink den” meaning, “In case of dissatisfaction, throw this out & you’ll get the refund! Some wicked fellows (often from urban areas) get up in local transports and make passengers fool saying like: “I came from Sialkot and somebody has picked my pocket, please help me”, or there are minor children or girls, who distribute brochure or cards for help . The most horrible ones are those carrying vomit sighting skin diseases or with decapitated limbs, showing off passengers for collecting donations.

Might is right principle is there in Karachi, there is no concept of ‘first come first serve’ or queues & only strong, influential or those with an oily tongue (no matter in religious costume) will win the race. Be it collection of utility bills, dealing with offices, shops etc. Reluctance behavior is also reflected from ordinary Karachites behavior. In case of accident, people just watch & move away, because they know the other part of the story, i.e. useless procedures of police & hospital, queries etc. Non-awareness to the first aid education is also the prime cause of many deaths in Karachi, as the Karachites rarely know the meaning of first aid which becomes crucial when it comes to saving lives.95% Karachites are Muslims, yet the teachings of Islam are not reflected in their lives. Relegion looks traditional & mere a source of thawab earning. The Maulvees job is only limited to mosques, conducting jalsa Juloos & criticizing Jews, American or western civilization.During any VVIP movement, certain roads & link roads are totally sealed, resulting in total collapse & traffic jams, which is another major problem for Karachites. No department is saved from the octopus of corruption, be it educational institutions, government hospitals, law & order agencies, water & sanitation, building / land authority, utility service provider, judiciary, employment, taxation etc. But in all these darkness there are ray of hopes for ordinary people like Abdul Sattar Edhi (an international famed social worker humanist), Ansar Burney, Cheepa, Saylani welfare trust & other social workers & NGOs, who are serving Karachites.

PEOPLE, LEISURE &VISITING PLACES:

The development and the expansion of city also changed the life style of its inhabitants & now the Karachites have adopted the modern way of life and a sweeper can also be seen with a mobile phone while sweeping streets.Whenever Karachites feels like celebrating or simply going out for recreation, they head towards the beaches which is the most exciting and Clifton beach (now converted to Bagh Ibni Qasim) is the most famous one. But high cost of living, worst inflation & above all law & order issues has blurred everything.. Before renovation to Bagh Ibni Qasim the old Clifton was quite attractive, where roller coaster & play land was stretching all over the area, but now play land has much shorter space as compared to larger green area which only provide dating heaven for the couples. Beside Clifton, Boat Basin is a famous place for late night diners where every type of local & western foods like Katakat, Chikan Tikka, Biryani, Quorma, Karaee, fish fry etc. The Shrine of Abdullah Shah Ghazi is a famous place, where people, mostly women offer their obligations. During the annual festival i.e. Urs, special Qawalis & daigs are offered to the visitors.

Now downside Neti Jeti Bridge, a VIP food street has been ‘installed’ for city elites followed by high rise metal shields has been placed both side of the bridge grills to ward off  poor folks from the location, who had been regularly throwing  meals for fishes for sacred obligations.  The government says the reason is ‘people (means poor) commit suicide from this place”, Such placement of shields are sheer negation of human rights from city government Karachi.  This was surely the end of century old tradition. Now only elites who can afford entry tickets & expensive meals can enjoy beautiful view of Neti Jeti.

Next to Clifton, Keamari, Manora Island & Korangi Creek are another breathtaking place for picnic. Local or special boats are available to swim around. Like Clifton, Manora Island also has a shrine and some hundred years old Hindu temple. Pakistani government is also planning for building some mega cities in the island of Manora, Baba Bit island & else.Out skirt of Karachi city, apart from Clifton, the city dwellers also visit other beaches like Hawks bay, Paradise Point, Sandpit, Gaddani, Sonehri & French Beaches (which is exclusive for Foreigners & elites) and other fascinating beaches stretched over hundreds of miles coastline uttered with rocks, cliffs & pebbles. In these beaches huts on rent are also available for visitors. During the weekend, these places are crowded with picnickers. Camel and horse riding are favorite fun in all beaches of Karachi. The Paradise Point, once known for its ‘natural hole in a rock’ is the most exciting beach. Now owing to government’s negligence the natural hole has turned out as ‘U’ as the upper part of rock fell down). Besides Neelum point is known for its series of cliffs while Gaddani’s spears like cliffs are the deadly one. Due to non availability of security & unawareness, dozens of people die because of drowning. Be it in Karachi, Balochistan, almost all army installations are near the beaches & because of the facts many areas are forbidden for local people & only army personnel s with their families enjoy their lives. Like installation of atomic reactor near Hawks bay, Manora, Keamari, where even photography is forbidden…

For eateries there are various places for every class, but again mind blowing dearness & global financial crunch are the biggest obstacles in everything. Many middle class have already come under the poverty line, while many riches are being converted to middleclass. Burns road is an old gold place for middle class, where everything is available in affordable price, like Chicken Tikkas, Haleem, Nehari, Biryani, Zarda, Paya, Dal Chawal, Sajji, Roast, Naan, Ice Cream, Faluda, Qulfa, Dahi Baray, including deserts like Kheer, Rabbari etc. Buffet at Lal Qila, Sea Breeze, McDonald, KFC & many Italian or Chinese food or Boating Basin are for higher middle & riches where local & western food are available.

Gardens and Parks located in different areas of Karachi, namely: old Zoological Garden, Burns Garden, Hill Park, Safari Park, Askari Park, Aladdin Park & Kuzi Park near Sohrab Gote (known for their fresh water sports), Bagh-e-Quaid-e-Azam, Polo Ground, PIA Planetarium, PAF / Naval Museum Parks (where poor folks can also have Aero plane experience), & what not riding over Victoria styled horse carriages from Polo ground to Clifton. Historical museum at Pakistan Chowki, Memon Masjid, Masjid-e-Tuba (having the largest Dome of the world without the support of central pillars) are some of the mesmerizing places of Karachi to be visited.

Due to collapse of Pakistani film industry, the Karachi cinemas had been turning into shopping centres but since the Indian movies have been allowed by Pakistani government , the cinemas are somehow back in the home. But situation is not the same like old days, the reason people have more options of fun & entertainment like cable, satellite & home theatres. The remaining cinemas of city are Nishat, Prince, Capri, while the Regal, Bambino, Naz, Plaza etc. have already been converted into shopping Malls or Auditorium. Comedy stage dramas in theatres like Karachi Arts Council & in other areas are also providing laugh packed leisure time for city dwellers where famous comedians like Omer Shareef, Saleem Afridi, Shakeel Siddiqui etc. performs.

Expo Centre Karachi, which is situated near Civic Centre (Gulshan), is also becoming the hallmark in Asia, where each year, international expos are organized for the investors & common people.

Thanks to the latest media breakthrough & various fashion magazines & channels like She, MAG, Visage & Akbar-e-Jihaan, the modeling is also becoming a hot field in Karachi where good looking males / females take active participation in bold / latest western style clothing displays, through catwalks, dulhan shows.

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